10 industry secrets on how to start and keep a modeling career
"How do I become a model?" is a frequent question from ESSENCE readers. Answer: A pretty face and great legs aren't all you'll need to break into the biz. Our insiders' tips:
1. Learn the lingo. A manager at an agency introduces you to clients and helps steer your career in exchange for 20 percent of your earnings. Your book, or portfolio, shows you in a range of professional photos. A camp card is a flyer featuring several shots of you, your measurements and your agency's contact information. A casting, an open call or a go see is an appointment with a prospective client.
2. Study your look. "Spend time staring into the mirror," says Maiysha, a Ford model and official print-campaign girl for Lane Bryant. "Know what your face does when you make different expressions." Kyle Hagler, a modal manager at International Management Group (IMG), advises, "Do as many test shoots as possible, even if they're only snapshots." Critique your photos: What is your best pose? Your most flattering angle?
3. Find a good agency. Most major modeling agencies are based in New York with branches in large cities like Miami and Los Angeles. But many smaller cities have modeling or talent agencies. Send local agencies you r best snapshots and arrange an interview. Before you agree to be represented by an agency, do your research: Who are the models it represents? What kind of work do they get (newspaper circulars, local fashion shows)? Is the agency listed with the Better Business Bureau?
4. Beware of scams. No one should ask you to invest a lot of money in camp cards, portfolios or test shoots. A reputable agency that's serious about representing you will arrange for test shoots with some photographers willing to shoot you free of charge and sell you prints for a nominal fee, says Hagler. Or they'll advance you the money and deduct it from your first paycheck.
5. Understand the requirements. To model full-time, you must be able to work long hours (a shoot can last more than 12 hours), sometimes with little sleep. You must be determined, focused and in possession of extraordinary genes: Models are typically at least five feel nine inches tall and well proportioned (usually with hips and waist measurements that are approximately ten inches apart, such as 34-24-34). You'll also need flawless skin, straight teeth and symmetrical features.
6. Consider modeling school. "Schools can give you an advantage over others by teaching you how to walk, behave and dress," says Hagler. Ask if the school has an affiliation with a reputable agency. Find out how many working models the institution has graduated in the last two years. Check on consumer complaints with the Better Business Bureau.
7. Be persistent. You can't expect modeling jobs to come to you, says booker Sharon Elcock, who works with the New York management company Mode Squad, Inc. If you're just starting out, one approach is to contact the public-relations manager at your local mall and inquire about any in store fashion shows. Let your hairstylist know you're available for hair shows. If you live in New York City or can afford to travel there, call the fashion or beauty department of your favorite magazines and ask if they're planning any makeover stories. Indicate whether you're willing to cut or color your hair. If you're signed to an agency, "make sure they're aware of any talents you have--dancing, Rollerblading, acting. You never know what someone is looking for," says Elcock.
8. Develop a thick skin. "You're going to be turned down for being ton fat or too skinny, too ethnic or not ethnic enough," says Maiysha. Clients will critique your pictures and expect you to take it like a pro. "It's all about how the client envisions selling their product," Maiysha says. "It has nothing to do with you."
9. Don't be a diva. Jay Manuel, creative director-producer of shoots for UPN's America's Next Top Model, says, "Models are there to be molded by professionals who understand the industry. Don't arrive thinking you know more than they do."
10. Have a plan B, cautions Maiysha. Few modeling careers last longer than ten years. Seek financial advice, save money, and cultivate other marketable skills.
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